When the weather soarsabove 90 — and Vermonters curse their neighbors with air conditioning — standingwaist deep in Lake Champlain holding a cold drink sounds like the thing to do. During the last heat wave, this urge determinedthe focus of my next wine-guy inquisition: summer quaffs.
I went to Dedalus Wine Shop tospeak with co-owner Jason Zuliani, who became passionate about wine whileworking at the New England Culinary Institute. After Zuliani took a briefhiatus, NECI recruited him to be their wine director.
But Zuliani was leading a dual life: wine guy by day, technology guru bynight. He also co-owned telecommunications firm Eagle Network Solutions (ENS). When that business took off, Zuliani left NECI, butconvinced his ENS partner, Tim Banks, that they needed to open a wine shop.
Both Banks and Zuliani enjoy huntingdown and selling obscure bottles and wines that evoke some uniquecharacteristic of a place or culture. I wanted to find a wine that represented summer, obscureor otherwise.
Seven Days: If you had to choose one wine to represent thesummer, what would you choose?
Jason Zuliani: If I had to choose one? That’s a serioushandicap for a guy like me. I would probably get into Italianwhites. I would look at a Lugana or a Grillo. Those wines arereally crisp, minerally, refreshing and vibrant…without a lot ofdistraction. A big blast of one on a hot day is great.
This article appears in Jul 21-27, 2010.
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Really? J.Z. wants me to appreciate something other than the taste of a bottle of wine? Hunh?! that sounds like someone with a wine selection he might have to “apologize” for!
I think I get what you’re talking about, Jason – and I agree. I always enjoy hearing about the people who make the wine and why they do it – and I use it to inform my decision. Also, drinking wine from a place that I visited and loved – is a wonderful way for me to reflect on that holiday and smile with every sip. Maybe its a poor analogy – but I’m the kind of person who likes to watch sports if I know whose playing. With the huge number of choices out there in the wine world – a way to connect personally to a wine works for me in deciding what to drink and can enhance my experience. Cheers!
John, thanks for the comment. A guy I know is fond of the saying “wine is a grocery”. Maybe it is. But maybe it’s more. I make no apologies for enjoying the story behind the wine. Knowing my suppliers, their families, the difficulties they endure to produce an excellent product, the joy they take from giving pleasure to others with their wines – these are things that enhance my experience of wine. These are elements of wine drinking that I like to share with my friends and my customers. Please, by all means, drop by the shop and chat with one of us for a few minutes. Abby, Chris, Tim or I would be happy to talk to you about wine. Each of us has different tastes and interests. Each of us enjoys different wines for different reasons. We’ve got a dynamite selection.Linda, if Proust were still alive, he might like to meet you. Thanks.