Veldma the cow at Nea-Tocht Farm Credit: Stacey Brandt
As I polish off a pint of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream and write my final post for Seconds of Summer, I can’t help but think about how much there is to do during the few moments of sun (and rain) that Vermont calls summer. My late-night snacking isn’t completely unrelated to my post this week. Last weekend, my friend Mikaela and I traveled to a Vermont dairy farm for breakfast to see who really makes the milk for our cookies and the cream for our ice cream.

Saturday, August 22, was the first annual Breakfast on the Farm held at Nea-Tocht Farm,  a 500-cow dairy owned by the Vander Wey family. The breakfast honored the Vermont dairy industry and welcomed hundreds of dairy lovers like myself to see where our beloved milk-based products originate.

Before the breakfast, I spoke with event co-organizer Dr. Julie Smith, an extension dairy specialist and associate professor at the University of Vermont. She expressed her hopes that the free breakfast and self-guided farm tour would become a learning opportunity. “We want people to ask questions,” Smith says. “I’ve heard rumors of people that think milk comes from the back of the store. It really is a natural product that comes from cows.”

Pancake breakfast featuring local butter from Vermont Creamery and Vermont maple syrup Credit: Stacey Brandt
From downtown Burlingon, Nea-Tocht Farm is a mere 40-minute drive, yet the landscape spreads out into pastures and the houses become few and far between. At 10 o’clock, we walked into the large dining tent set up in front of the farm where volunteers from the Champlain Valley Christian School were serving pancakes, breakfast sausages and berries buffet style. Volunteer Julia Gosliga said she had been dreaming about the breakfast — but not for too long. “I woke up at 20 to five this morning to cook,” she said.

Fully appreciating the feast and local dairy offerings, we slathered up our pancakes with remarkably rich butter from Vermont Creamery and enjoyed iced mochas from Kimball Brook Farm

After a reluctant parting with our coffee and breakfast plates, we headed off to see the cows. First, we were obliged to slip on a pair of blue shoe coverings to prevent unwanted interactions between our personal collection of germs and those of the cows. Stepping into Nea-Tocht’s dairy barn is like any other except for one difference: the robots.

In addition to hundreds of cows, motorized devices large and small moved around in silence doing the dirty work. One particularly bulky machine, which resembled an oversize Roomba vacuum, was pushing stray cow feed back to the pens. Huge, spinning brushes inside the pens acted as personal back and snout masseurs for some very pleased customers. 

Lely Juno feed pusher Credit: Stacey Brandt

Perhaps the most important machines (certainly the most futuristic) were the robotic milkers. After some labor issues at the farm, the Vander Weys decided to invest in milking technology to pick up the slack.

“We were looking for something more reliable to milk the cows,” said Sid Vander Wey, son of  Nea-Tocht Farm founder Raymond Vander Wey.

The computer system in the robotic milking machines analyzes and assesses each cow and allows her to be milked when she’s ready.

Dr. Julie Smith holding cow feed Credit: Stacey Brandt

Throughout the morning, Mikaela and I continued to learn about cows, cow comfort and how farmers are increasing the productivity of the animals. We met with Smith outside at an info table, which showed all the components of the cow feed. In the barn, the feed looked a bit muddy — like hay mixed with soil — but Smith explained that it was actually a nutrient-rich mixture of byproducts from the food we eat. A compost cocktail, if you will.

“If you took everything you eat in a day and put it in the blender, this is what you’d get,” explained Smith, holding up a bunch of feed. She said that balancing a cow’s diet leads not only to a healthier animal but to more milk. 

Our visit ended with a burst of new life: a calf was being born back at the dairy barn. The mother had been in labor since our arrival. We took our place in a small crowd to watch the beginning of the birth. I’m not exactly sure how a newborn calf contributes to my overall dining experience, but it certainly marks a first for Seconds of Summer.

I can say this: The next time I go for a chocolate shake or a pint of ice cream, I’ll take a second to thank the cows and remember who the milk was really made for. 

Seconds of Summer is a weekly blog feature devoted to offbeat seasonal dining experiences. 

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Stacey Brandt was an assistant food writer for Seven Days in 2015.

3 replies on “Seconds of Summer: First Annual Breakfast on the Farm”

  1. Here’s the thing: Milk is a dirty business. Most of it comes from commercial farms where the cows are mistreated, overfed, drugged, and injected with growth hormones — amidst appallingly filthy conditions. And what the dairy commodity business won’t tell you is that diseases (viral and bacterial) is rampant in dairy herds in Vermont and across the U.S. Many farmers and scientists suspect illnesses are transferable through milk. No, organic dairies are not exempt. Only milk heated at high heat is safe, unless your milk provider can certify that their cows are disease-free (an expensive proposition… which is likely why the Agency of Agriculture doesn’t mandate testing for disease — they are, after all, a state agency, part of a government heavily influenced by commercial dairy lobbyists). The Alternative Dairy Institute (formerly American Micro-Dairies) is a nonprofit devoted to ensuring safe, local, great-tasting milk, and they’re trying to stop the insanity in the milk industry: http://americanmicrodairies.org/

  2. Hello Egmatic
    I am one of many folks who are sick and tired of the classification factory farm . Could you please tell me your interpetation of a factory farm? How many factory farms are there in Vermont or the U.S. as far as that goes?
    I will bet you have NO idea.
    Just because someone is milking 1500 cows it does not mean they are a factory farm. I have been in the ag industries all my life and still am in the ag field travel most of Vermont and know of NOT ONE factory farm in the whole state. People like you have no idea what a family farm really is now days
    I would be very interested in your answers .

  3. Well Egmatic, as a dairy farmer and cow lover i am sorry to hear you feel a strong need to spread lies and try to scare others into believing farmers are cruel people and animal haters. That is just so absurd! If a person wants to know about farms they should ask a farmer! Most farmers are willing to give farm tours and explain all that goes on on their farm. Check out the following for info straight from farmers! http://Www.uddertruth.org and http://www.askthefarmers.com

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