Fans of the long-closed River Run Restaurant in Plainfield will rejoice that its chef and cofounder, Jimmy Kennedy, has returned to offer a familiar menu of fried catfish and pulled pork at Zenbarn in Waterbury Center. The venue at 179 Guptil Road offers counter service Wednesday through Saturday evenings, with an abbreviated weeknight menu.
Kennedy, a Mississippi native, sold the nationally acclaimed River Run in 2009 after 18 years of serving what he described as “southern comfort food with a little bit of barbecue on the side.” That restaurant space at 65 Main Street is now part of a branch of Positive Pie. Kennedy, who is also a competitive bass angler, continued to cook for his JDK BBQ catering business.
Zenbarn co-owner Ari Fishman said he’s happy to focus on hosting live music, comedy, private parties and other events. Running a restaurant, he admitted, “stresses me out.”
When the most recent chef left last summer, staff pulled together a basic taco menu. But after six months, Fishman said, “We realized we need a little more menu here.”
He ran into Kennedy cooking at an event and, following some conversation, Fishman said, “He’s our kitchen now.”
Kennedy promised that the baked mac and cheese (often finished in the smoker), vinegary coleslaw, and fried dill pickles are “the exact same recipes” he made at River Run. He has added salads topped with fried or grilled catfish or chicken. The chef said he expects his much-loved hush puppies to make a reappearance, too. Zenbarn closes sometimes for private events, so check the website calendar before heading over to sample Kennedy’s fare.
This article appears in Mar 15-21, 2023.
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