Newbury saffron farmer Jette Mandl-Abramson of Calabash Gardens believes that saffron is underappreciated as an ingredient in sweets. Although the precious spice is traditionally featured in Persian rice pudding and in raisin-studded, yeasted holiday buns in Sweden, more cooks think of using it in savory dishes.
Mandl-Abramson suggests substituting a little freshly ground saffron bloomed in water for vanilla extract in baked goods and pairing it with cinnamon, cardamom or pistachios. The former bartender also loves to use saffron honey — or saffron-infused maple syrup or simple syrup — for margaritas, bee’s knees and Manhattans.
Cookbook author Gesine Bullock-Prado, who teaches baking at her Sugar Glider Kitchen in her White River Junction home, grows saffron for personal use. She included a recipe for a rich onion saffron tart in her latest cookbook, My Vermont Table: Recipes for All (Six) Seasons. When it comes to sweet pairings, Bullock-Prado said saffron goes well with honey and almond. She suggested trying it in a financier or an almond dacquoise recipe. Both have relatively simple flavor profiles “to allow the saffron to shine,” Bullock-Prado wrote by email.
Here is a simple shortbread recipe with saffron in the dough and also in a beautiful golden glaze. The pistachios are optional but add great flavor and texture. See below for a photograph of how to make the recipe with both options.
Vermont Saffron and Pistachio Shortbread
Yield: 8 triangular cookie wedges
Adapted from saffron shortbread by Shira Bocar on marthastewart.com
Ingredients
- 1 generous pinch saffron, crushed (to yield about 1/4 teaspoon)
- 1 tablespoon hot water
- 1 stick unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more to grease the pan
- 6 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
- Up to 1/2 cup chopped, salted pistachios, if desired
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Directions
- Place the saffron in a small bowl; add hot water and let steep 20 minutes.
- Grease the bottom and sides of an 8-inch round cake pan (preferably springform for easier removal) with the extra butter.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer, or using an electric handheld mixer, beat the butter with the confectioners’ sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add 1 teaspoon of the saffron water and the cardamom and beat until combined, scraping again as needed.
- Add the flour and salt and beat just until dough comes together.
- Pat the dough into the prepared pan and refrigerate until firm, about 20 minutes. Preheat the over to 325 degrees. Score the chilled dough into 8 wedges with a sharp knife and then prick all over with a fork. Brush the surface with the remaining saffron water. Sprinkle the chopped pistachios over the top, if using, followed by the sugar.
- Bake the shortbread until firm and dark golden around the edges, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool briefly in the pan on a wire rack. Release the springform band or gently turn the shortbread out of the pan. Recut the wedges along the scored lines with a serrated knife and cool completely.
Got cooking questions? Email pasanen@sevendaysvt.com.
This article appears in Oct 25-31, 2023.
Got something to say?
Send a letter to the editor and we'll publish your feedback in print!
