The city of Winooski is still without a supermarket, but now residents of the rapidly changing downtown have a central place to grab convenience food and a selection of prepared items. Last Monday, the Winooski Falls Market & Deli “quietly opened” in Keen’s Crossing, says co-owner Laurie Chicoine.

Since then, a mix of college students and longer-term residents have been swinging by to snag milk, instant potatoes and frozen dinners, plus local products such as Island Homemade Ice Cream and Speeder & Earl’s coffee. “We’ve had a warm, receptive welcome from the community,” Chicoine says.

Patrons have been snapping up the reasonably priced hot sandwiches made on La Panciata bread, some of which are layered with house-roasted turkey and ham. The Cajun Jammer — which mixes chicken, several kinds of sausage and pepper jack cheese — is a popular choice, says Chicoine. So is the chipotle-mayo-laced Southwest Turkey Panini.

Co-owner Larry Rondeau — who worked at What’s Your Beef Restaurant and the Rotisserie Restaurant back in the day — also creates signature soups such as cheddar ale, which he made last week. Homemade potato, pasta and green salads round out the offerings.

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Former contributor Suzanne Podhaizer is an award-winning food writer (and the first Seven Days food editor) as well as a chef, farmer, and food-systems consultant. She has given talks at the Stone Barns Center for Agriculture's "Poultry School" and its...