Each summer, the American Cheese Society shells out “best of” prizes in more categories than the average mozzarella muncher can imagine: For example, there’s an award for “cheeses flavored with peppers (sweet, savory, jalapeños, chipotles, etc.), mustard, olives, wasabi, onion, garlic or spice.” What a mouthful!

This year, as always, Vermont creameries went away with numerous accolades, including 33 first-, second- and third-place ribbons. Cabot Creamery Cooperative and Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. were big winners, as always, but a few smaller producers, such as the folks from Consider Bardwell Farm of West Pawlet, were also recognized. See the Omnivore blog for a complete list of winners.

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Former contributor Suzanne Podhaizer is an award-winning food writer (and the first Seven Days food editor) as well as a chef, farmer, and food-systems consultant. She has given talks at the Stone Barns Center for Agriculture's "Poultry School" and its...