Three-and-a-half years later, only one is left standing, Burlington’s El Gato Cantina. Its second location opened in the former Belted Cow Bistro space in Essex Junction last October. Since then its margaritas, ranging from the $7 house version to the $37 Don Julio’s 1942 Dream, have attracted crowds eager for something more authentic than quesadillas and nachos. El Gato has those Americano classics, but also more traditional options. Do they pass Mexican muster?
The chubby, chunky carnitas at far right were braised tender, then fried crisp outside. Their topping of salsa verde could have used more acid, but cilantro was enough to make each bite a sunny experience.
At far left, the carne asada was cooked into dark-brown ribbons that were only slightly more moist than jerky. The endearingly crisp jacket on the fish taco hid a mushy chunk of pescado drowned in dissonant dill cream sauce.The stewed chicken in the mole taco was meaty and delicately flavored, but the sauce itself tasted more like Abuelita-brand Mexican hot chocolate than the brooding, chile-bolstered bite I craved.
The other two dishes in the meal were standouts. The masa binding the tamale was exceptionally creamy and filled with a hearty helping of chopped pork. Caramelized onions and peppers on top were a sweet counterpoint to the complex, lightly spiced salsa roja.
The delicate chile relleno was indulgent but exceptionally well balanced. Coated in an airy batter of whipped egg, the fried Poblano pepper melted with its stuffing of soft queso fresco. Just enough of the salsa roja was drizzled on top to provide a taste of fire, without overwhelming the fragile fried pepper.
It was evidence that El Gato’s staff is capable of some high-level cooking. If they can just watch their seasoning, this cat will have more than nine lives.
Alice Eats is a weekly blog feature devoted to reviewing restaurants where diners can get a meal for two for less than $45. Got a restaurant you’d love to see featured? Send it to alice@sevendaysvt.com.
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The food is great… but no lie, I went there twice and each time they were severely understaffed. The first time I took us about ten minutes to get drink orders taken, and the second time there was literally one person working the front. I tried them at their first location and loved the food. The food is great! But they really needed a full staff before opening their doors. I’ll give it one more go… I suppose.
I had a really lackluster experience at the Essex location. I couldn’t bring myself to go back. The posole tasted like tepid water and I wasn’t a big fan of the salsa. I was looking for something above the average fast food fare and didn’t experience it.
If you’re hankering for authentic Mexican, it’s hard to beat “Bernie’s” in Montgomery on Monday or Thursday nights. The margarita’s ain’t too shabby either 😉
My two experiences at the Essex El Gato were different. The first was six months ago. I ate feckless, “Mexican” fare. Nothing too offensive, but nothing special – like thousands of mediocre Mexican restaurants around the country that seem to think Mexican food should be bland.
I ate there again a month ago. It slid all the way downhill to the land of “unacceptable.” I got a combo plate. I think there was more water in the beef than beef. I mean, if you’re preparing spiced beef, it shouldn’t be watery, but if it is, you really ought to strain it before pouring it into a soon-to-be soggy taco shell.
Not to be outwatered, the refried beens were also alarmingly soupy. And the dollop of bland fried rice was cold and lumpy.
Also, the beef had an odd flavor to it – I can’t describe the offending spice (or perhaps it just picked up the flavor of the dishwater it had been sitting in for the last six months), but it wasn’t Mexican.
I’m going to stay away from all VT restaurants that have anything to do with cats – El Gato will not be getting any more business from me, and I still have nightmares about my experience at the execrable Blue Cat about 7 years ago. It’s the first time a restaurant experience gave me PTSD.
That El Gato gets a positive review can only lead me to the conclusion that this reviewer is in dire need of a tastebud transplant. Still, that wouldn’t help improve her vision – the presentation of this ostensible Mexican meal, floating as it was in a sea of watery, unidentifiable liquid, would have been funny if I hadn’t been hungry – and paying for the distinctly unpleasant meal.